Polina Chesnakova’s new cookbook, Chesnok, offers a fresh perspective on the cuisine of Eastern Europe and the Caucasus—a culinary landscape shaped by migration, family traditions, and a deep appreciation for bold flavors. At its heart is a deceptively simple recipe: grenki, or savory French toast, topped with cheese. This isn’t your typical weekend brunch dish; it’s a reminder that even the most familiar foods can be reimagined with a touch of cultural heritage.
The Roots of Chesnok
Chesnakova, whose background spans Ukraine, Russia, and Armenia, drew inspiration from generations of family recipes. Her book is a deeply personal exploration of how food travels across borders, adapting and evolving in the process. It isn’t merely a collection of dishes; it’s a testament to the resilience of cultural identity through taste.
The cookbook’s creation wasn’t straightforward. Chesnakova describes the challenges of translating “by eye” recipes—the kind passed down through generations, measured in handfuls and pinches—into precise instructions for modern cooks. This process involved countless kitchen experiments and patient calls with her mother and aunts, meticulously weighing ingredients and clarifying techniques.
Beyond the Recipe: Why This Matters
The rise of diaspora cookbooks like Chesnok reflects a broader trend: a growing desire to reconnect with ancestral flavors. For many, food is a powerful link to lost or fading traditions. Chesnakova’s work not only preserves these recipes but also makes them accessible to a wider audience, ensuring they don’t vanish with time.
The cookbook also highlights the importance of ingredient sourcing. While some Eastern European staples are becoming more available in mainstream grocery stores, Chesnakova recommends specialized online resources like Suneli Valley for authentic Georgian spices and Cultures for Health for fermented dairy starters.
The Grenki Recipe: A Quick Guide
The savory French toast itself is remarkably easy to prepare:
Yields: 2 servings
Prep time: 5 minutes
Cook time: 10 minutes
Ingredients:
- 2 eggs
- ¼ teaspoon kosher salt (or to taste)
- ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper (or to taste)
- ¼ to ⅓ cup whole milk
- Butter, for cooking
- 4–6 slices day-old white bread
Instructions:
- Beat eggs, salt, and pepper until smooth. Whisk in milk.
- Melt butter in a nonstick skillet over medium heat.
- Soak bread slices in egg mixture, flipping to coat evenly.
- Cook in skillet until golden brown on both sides (2 minutes per side).
- Serve immediately.
The key is to strike a balance between soaking the bread thoroughly without letting it become soggy. A generous amount of butter ensures a crispy exterior and prevents sticking. The result is a warm, savory treat that’s perfect for breakfast, lunch, or a late-night snack.
In the end, Chesnok isn’t just about the recipes; it’s about the stories, memories, and cultural heritage woven into every dish. The savory French toast, a simple yet satisfying creation, embodies this spirit perfectly: a reminder that the most meaningful flavors often come from the most unexpected places.
